Where To Buy Handbag Straps
We make attachable straps and accessories for purses, handbags, totes, and almost any style of bag. Made by hand in the USA, our products reflect careful attention to detail, design and durability.
where to buy handbag straps
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The short answer is that yes, handbag straps can be repaired, but it depends on the state of your strap. If your strap has a few minor cracks in the leather, some imperfections, and slight tears, you can certainly resurrect it with some careful restoration work.
Senreve offers many bag designs that have the ability to switch out straps, as well as a host of strap options from chains to leather options that double as belts. Our Strati strap gives an instant upgrade to our Strati Sporta. This lightweight, adjustable strap clips right onto your Strati silhouettes (or Aria Belt bag) to seamlessly convert them into a crossbody or shoulder bag.
There's plenty of space for cameras, lenses, and other accessories. Need to carry a tripod? Cinch it to the bottom with the included straps. Need to bring a large tablet or laptop? Get Wandrd's laptop case ($59), which elegantly slots in vertically in the rear-most pocket. My only gripe? Some models are frequently out of stock. If it's available, grab it. It's easily my favorite sling.
I like that there's no camera cube to take out when converting it to a normal bag. Just fold down the Velcro divider in the main compartment and take out any additional dividers. The Jumper is comfortable to carry, and there's a luggage pass-through strap, a roomy side pocket, and tripod attachment straps on the base. Seriously, it has it all. My worry? The 600-denier polyester material doesn't feel as durable as I'd like, and my Lemon Yellow model stains too easily.
I usually prefer bags with side access, but I've been quite happy with the Hex Backloader. Yes, you need to take it off your back to access all your gear, but an access point at the very top makes it easy to quickly pull out the camera. The main compartment in the back is really spacious and is outfitted with tons of Velcro dividers, so you have lots of room for customization. There are organizational mesh pouches and pockets galore, a padded section in the front that can fit a 15-inch laptop, straps on one side for a tripod, and a pouch on the other for a bottle. It's super comfy to carry around, sternum strap and all.
The many compartments, straps, and zippers can get very confusing, but take it out on a trip once or twice and you'll get the hang of it. The quick-draw access on the side lets you speedily grab your camera, and there's also water bladder routing so you can parch your thirst without reaching for a bottle.
Wandrd Essential Camera Cube for $64: This cube is better for backpacks with side access. It's made of 420-denier Robic nylon and has a weather-resistant coating. You get five thick dividers you can customize via the Velcro lining to fit around your equipment, and three straps to hold everything down. There are Mini and Pro sizes, and each also has Plus or Deep variants if you need more room. Wandrd's website has a nice size guide that shows what each can fit.
Shimoda Explore V2 25 Backpack for $373: I really like this backpack, but it's a touch too expensive. It's supremely comfortable to carry, thanks to its extensive padding, and the whole thing is water-resistant to keep your gear safe. I was able to stuff it with a surprising number of items despite its relatively slim size (all of which you can access from the rear), including a tripod in its side deployable pocket that you can cinch tight with a strap. There's side access to the camera, tons of pockets for organization (I love the little pouch on the arm straps), and a padded sleeve for a 13-inch laptop.
Wotancraft Scout Daily Camera Bag 9L for $299: If you're after a stylish messenger, I've always liked the designs from Wotancraft, and the Scout is no different. It's made of durable Cordura with some cowhide leather thrown in for the straps on the flap. The main compartment is spacious and separated by sturdy dividers, along with a padded laptop pouch that can just barely fit a 13-inch MacBook Air. There are two pouches in the front that can loosely carry some small items, but there's not much in the way of organization here. There is a luggage pass-through and a rear zippered pocket, but no side pockets and no easy way to attach a tripod.
I shopped around for 20 of the best bag straps, which you can check out below, and during that process, it became clear that there are basically two types of straps available: those under $500, which are accessible to shoppers who want a little variety and personalization for their existing bags, and those above $500, which are a new way to sell to a consumer class that has so much money it has run out of other things to buy.
Our adjustable handbag straps with gold coloured hardware are the perfect addition and can transform your handbag into a shoulder or crossbody delight! Why not transform your Mini Pochette Accessoires, Neverfull Pouch, Pochette Felicie or Double Zip Pochette today!
Handbag Angels the name synonymous with luxury liner inserts for all top branded designer handbags. Every one of the innovative designs provides an array of carefully measured pockets, perfect for easy organisation of mobile phone, keys, makeup and any other vital items, keeping them safe and easier to find.
Our handbag organiser inserts are lovingly made from premium quality, soft yet sturdy, lightweight felt fabric, by our own highly talented seamstresses, in-house, here in the UK. The internal and external multi pocket design of the handbag organiser inserts come in a large variety of sizes, giving ease of access and are perfect for keeping your handbag contents organised!
Each handbag organiser insert comes with a choice of many lovely colours, with the option of adding a key strap for keeping your keys safe, plus some handy wee pouches, perfect for lipsticks, mobile phones or tablets.
All of our handbag organiser inserts are thoughtfully designed for everyone who loves designer handbags and wants to keep their belongings nicely organised. Portable and compact handbag liner organiser inserts for most designer brands such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Mulberry, YSL and Hermes, and many more. If you are unable to find exactly what you want, then please contact The Handbag Angels Team who will be delighted to help you make something extra special.
Here are the instructions for the purse straps made out of faux leather. These instructions also work on leather and vinyl. Try out your new leather straps on this easy tote bag or this curved top shoulder handbag.
Rule of thumb: these instructions can be adjusted for any size strap. Figure out how wide you would like your strap, then multiply by 3 and that will be how wide you will need to cut your leather. For this tutorial, the finished straps are 1 1/2 inches wide.
Hand-picked and tested is a variety of straps that create the Dutchies strap collection. Effortlessly clipping onto your case with two high-quality clips with an adjustable link to get the desired length when needed are the components that make up our straps. From bold and making a statement to classic and minimalistic and of course a fun and bright range for those with an artistic flair that will brighten your day. Paired hues to complement any outfit and made to match any leather phone case you choose.
How awesome do these faux leather vinyl handbag straps look? The Emmaline Bag with 1" handbag straps.If you want to make some great leather look straps from vinyl that don't show raw edges and messy threads, keep on reading because I can show you how. They are super easy to make and they turn out so good. I must say, I'm loving them. Recently, I took one of my bags down to the local quilting shop and the ladies working there marveled over my handles and thought they were real leather. If it sounds like I'm tooting my own horn here, I apologize, but I guess I am! If you need a bag to try them out on, you can put these straps to use on my new ePattern, The Emmaline Bag, available in the shop HERE.The Emmaline Bag with 1.5" handbag straps.A few months ago I was making a handbag from a pattern that called for premade leather straps, and after looking around, I found that they were either really cheap looking, really expensive or available only by order and had a huge wait for delivery. Now I am a really impatient person, so waiting for a strap delivery when I wanted to make my bag RIGHT NOW wasn't going to work. So I went down to my local Spotlight (fabric and craft store) and found some gorgeous soft, leather look, vinyl called Utopia and away I went. They didn't turn out great at first, because I had to figure out how to hide those raw edges without having to turn them inside out, and I didn't want any thread ends or back-stitching showing. You can't have thick seam allowances either, but eventually, through trial and error, I worked it out and was really happy with the results. Finding the right vinyl is key, because with the wrong stuff you won't have that great leather look and it will be really hard to sew. Remember, you aren't making a seat for the wave runner or your husband's snowmobile, this vinyl needs to be soft, pliable, and pretty thin. Stay away from the marine grade! I found mine in the upholstery section and it came in 60" widths. The back of it looks like soft woven jean in grey. It's not thin like you would make a tacky pleather 80's shirt or pants out of either and it doesn't look like plastic. (I get mine at the Online Fabric Store!)There are a couple of other supplies you need; you can't just go crazy with the pleather yet. Get yourself a teflon foot, they come for all makes of machines, and there are universal ones too. If you can't find a teflon foot, you can use some scotch tape under your regular foot to help make it slide across the fabric. Also, leather needles are a must. I have sewed through my vinyl with a normal needle, but only with normal thread. If you want some great topstitching, you will need some heavy duty or upholstery thread (I use Gutterman's Upholstery Thread) in both the top and the bobbin, so for this you will need the leather needle. I haven't experimented with other threads yet, but I have heard you can use a heavier quilting cotton as well. Also, You will need to get yourself some rings to match the size of handle you are making. I use shiny nickel O-rings or alloy nickel rectangular rings. I'm kind of in love with the rectangle ones at the moment. UPDATE!: You can purchase your handbag hardware in our shop HERE!A word about tension: Tension is very important for these to turn out good. The vinyl material and heavy duty thread will definitely require you to make adjustments. Before you start on the project, sew on doubled and quadrupled vinyl with your required needle and thread and adjust your tension until the stitches look good on both the front and back. I usually end up using a 6 or 7.Click photos to enlargeLet's get started: Materials:Teflon Presser FootUpholsery/heavy duty threadRotary Cutter/mat/rulerbinder clips, paper clips, or other clipsleather needlesvinyl (PVC, faux leather) - I get mine from OFS!O-Rings or Rectangular RingsFabric tabs to go on rings.large upholstery needle I am going to show you how to make a pair of 16" handles. For this you will need to cut 2 strips of vinyl that are double the length you want plus 1/2" seam allowance. So for this, cut 2 strips that are 2 inches wide x 32.5 inches long. This will give you handles 1 inch wide, but if you want handles that are 1.5 inches wide, cut your strip 3 inches wide. We will be using rings that are on fabric tabs as they are easier to sew into the handbag than vinyl ones. I use both methods, but for this tutorial we'll use fabric. So please prepare your rings with fabric tabs on them already. These can be added on the rings after, if you choose. 1. Using a pen, draw a line down the exact center of the length of the strips. 2. Thread your rings onto the strips, 2 rings per bag strap. Make sure your straps are not twisted. Important!3. Bring ends together, right sides together. If desired, clip together with clips or plastic covered saftety pins. (You can't use regular pins in vinyl because it will leave permanent holes) I have drawn on a 1/4" seam allowance (sewing line) for you to refer to, but normally I don't draw the line or clip the ends together, but I am wild like that.4. Sew across ends using a 1/4" seam. Don't bother back-stitching. 5. Open up seam and flatten with fingers. Starting on one side, sew down opened seam allowance using a 1/8" seam. 6. When you get to the end, turn (with the needle down), sew across end of seam allowance, and then come back down the other side. 7. Sew across the other end. Clip threads. This is how it will look from the other side. (Using a long stitch)8. Fold one edge to the drawn pen line and clip in place. You don't need to clip the whole strap, just enough to get the foot under with no problems. Using a long stitch (between 3 and 5, I use 4.5), stitch very close to the edge, (about 1/8 inch or less) all around the strap loop. You will have to slide your two floating rings out of the way as you sew. 9. This close up is to show the guides I am using. I like to line my fabric edge up on the inside edge of the little metal opening that the feed dogs come out of because it is slightly less than 1/8", but the 1/8" mark works good too. You could put a piece of tape down to use as a guide if you need to. It is VERY important that this stitching is as straight as possible, and VERY accurate. You will be stitching over this later and it has to be straight! Go slow, folding the raw edge to the pen line as you go. Putt, Putt, fold, Putt, Putt, fold.10. When you start to get close to your starting point, STOP a few inches before you get there and put the needle down, and find your thread ends from your starting point. Grab the thread end that is on the top (side with raw edges of fabric), and pull the thread slightly. This will pull a small loop of the bobbin thread up. Use a seam ripper or large needle to pull up that loop, bringing the bobbin thread to the top side.11. Tie off the threads together using a double knot and trim ends. This will be hidden later so you don't need to trim them too short. Continue sewing until you reach the point where you started. Snip threads and repeat Step 10 with these thread ends too. Bringing the both of the threads to this side will finish them off without having an unsightly, messy back-stitch that shows on your finished strap. 12. On the other edge, fold raw edge to meet the other at the middle, repeat sewing along edge for this side. REMEMBER to stop before you sew over your start point and pull the bobbin threads up and tie off, and then after finishing, pull up that thread and tie off too. Sew as straight and even as you possibly can. 13. After you have tied off your ends, flip the whole strap over and line up your foot so your stitching will be about 1/8" over, you will stitch a second row of stitching here for decoration (optional). I use the 1/4" mark on my base plate for a guide. You could also try it 1/4" away from your previous seam on a wider strap. Do what you like! 14. Important! As you are coming up to where you started stitching, stop sewing and pull your top thread to the back side and tie off to the bobbin thread. Then, when you meet the mark where you started, tie off those threads in the same manor. Make sure it's at the back!15. Repeat this process for the other side.16. Your loop should now look like this. Now we have to put the strap together in the middle with the raw edges hidden inside.17. Flatten the loop down on itself, tucking any thread ends in between the layers. I make sure the spot where the strip was joined in a seam is exactly where you will be stitching across the strap. That sounds confusing, but this is how you do it. Measure about 1.25" - 1.5" from where the strap folds over the ring to the first seam line that goes across the strap (where the two pins are). In step 19, you are going to stitch over the top stitching line you did in step 5. Clip the strap in place so this doesn't slide. The pins are gently stuck in the edges so you can see where to stop and start your stitches. 18. At the other end, do the same thing. Measure the same distance from the fold at the end as you used for the other side, I used 1.25". Put a pin in on both edges to mark the measurement. Alternatively, you could us a chalk line. Clip it together so it doesn't slide. The pins are markers to show you where to turn when top stitching, they are not holding anything together.19. Flip the strap over so the seam from Step 5 is on the bottom. Place the strap under the presser foot with the strap placed sideways. Your needle will be poised to sew in the middle of the strap, exactly over the top stitching line you created in Step 5 (you can also see this in Step 24). Starting in the middle, sew right along the line of stitching already going across the strap, to the stitching line that is on the outer edge. Even though the stitching line is on the bottom side, you will know where it is because if the pins you put in to mark it. Stop at the edge stitching with your needle down.20. With your needle down, lift the presser foot and turn strap so you can sew along the edge. You will sew through both straps using the same long stitch you used before, exactly over the stitching line that runs along the outer edge. 21. Make sure your edges meet perfectly, use your fingers to keep the edges butted together. Sew through both sides at the same time. Your stitches might not line up perfectly on the back side, but don't worry to much about it. After do it a time or two, they will be perfect.22. Stop when you get to the pin that is placed 1.25" from the end. Put your needle down at the pin (remove pin so you don't sew over it).23. With needle down, lift presser foot, turn strap sideways and get ready to sew across to the other side. TRICK! If you start sewing, and your pressure foot is hanging off the back of this strap, your needle will hit your presser foot and damage them both. If your sewing machine doesn't have a fancy setting to prevent this, all you need to do is place a plastic needle case lid (as shown) under the back of the foot and over the feed dogs. Just take the lid off the needles and slide it under. As you sew, it will slide back out of the way and fall off the machine. It works awesome!24. A few inches before you get to your starting point, you can pull your top thread to the back by pulling the bobbin thread, and th